Bulb Propagation of Daffodils

Daffodils, they come before the swallow dares and take the winds of March with beauty.

Daffodils are a wonderful sign that spring has arrived. Plant the bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in the late winter or early spring.

Daffodils, otherwise known as Narcissus pseudonarcissus, consists of hundreds of species and hybrids. They are perennials, and bloom year after year, making then a very popular garden plant species.

Although Daffodils are native to Northern Europe Daffodils are very hardy and can adapt to be grown in almost any environment. Daffodils are planted in the fall, preferably before the cold temperatures and frost that winter brings. The bulbs need a cold temperature vernalization period to promote root development and to prepare for flowering in the spring.

All asexual propagation techniques of Daffodils involve the formation of small daughter bulblets. These techniques include the formation of offsets, stem bulblets and the division of basal sections of the bulb.

Propagation by offsets, involve growing bulbs from bulblets. Bulblets are miniature bulbs produced on the scales and stems of the bulbs. When we propagate the Daffodils here at Propgrowth, we carefully dig up the mother plants to expose the root systems and the small bulblets. Next we gently remove the bulblets and replant then into the growing beds in slightly acidic soil. We dip the bottom parts of the bulbs in hormones to enhance root and shoot formation. Auxins are used for root formation and Cytokinins for the shoot formation. The bulbs should flower within a few years.

Stem bulblets are bulbs produced underground on the stem of the plant. These bulbs can be cut away and propagated with the same method described for the propagation of offsets.

The third method used to produce daffodils involves the division of basal sections of the bulb and can be done in 4 different ways:

1. Scooping
2. Coring
3. Scoring
4. Sectioning

Scooping involves the removal of the basal plate of the bud and planting it in the fall. It exposed the leaf bases where small bulblets will develop. The scooped buds should be treated with fungicide and placed in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks. At this point small bulblets should be produced on the bulbs and they can be planted. Scooping can produce up to 30 bulblets from a single bulb.

Scoring involves the removal of the entire growing point of the bud. This is done by making three V-shaped cuts to just beneath the widest part of the bulb to destroy the main growing point. Bulbs are then placed in a warm, dark place for a couple of months before being planted in the fall. Scoring usually takes 3 years to produce a mature

plant that’s ready to flower and can produce 12 – 25 bulblets per bulb.

Coring involves the removal of the centre (core) part of the basal plate. The bulbs are treated in the same manner as described with scoring. Coring produces large flowers and mature rapidly.

Sectioning involves the cutting of the bulb into sections and planting the different sections in the fall. Once again fungicide is used to prevent diseases.  

Sectioning involves the cutting of the bulb into sections and planting the different sections in the fall. Once again fungicide is used to prevent diseases.  

Another common method used in the propagation of Daffodils is called scaling. During scaling, the scales of the bud is removed and placed in a favourable circumstances to trigger the formation of adventitious buds.  Generally multiple bulbs for per scale, making this a very effective propagation method. 

Before deciding on a location to plant your propagating bulbs look for a place full of sun or partially shaded. Most daffodils tolerate a wide range of soils but grow the best in moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is moist in die growing season. Many of the popular species prefer neutral to acidic soils but some prefer slightly alkaline soils so it all depends on the nursery and specific specie being propagated. In places where the winters are severe make sure there is at least 3 inches of soil covering the bulb. Prevent planting Daffodils in straight lines. They prefer to be scattered 3-6 inches apart.

Daffodils are known to grow best in 10-21 degrees Celsius, which favours the formation of roots and shoots. The cooler the temperature the bulbs are propagated in, the longer the flowers will last during the reproductive phase. When propagated bulbs, replanted in pots, are sold, it lasts longer when is stored at 16 degree Celsius with 75% humidity before distribution.